Are you wondering about theeffect of coloring on your hair? You will discover that not only do these toxic products cause lasting damage to your hair, but they also pose health risks.
Sylvie Hampikian, pharmaco-toxicologist expert and co-author with Alexandra Perrogon of "J'embellis mes cheveux" (I make my hair beautiful), published by Terre vivante, tells us all about the risks linked to chemical coloring and the alternative and repairing solutions.
What is hair made of? Better understand what can damage hair
In order to understand how colorings chemicals work on our hair, it is important to understand the structure of the hair.
You will see that the toxic formulas have been designed to attack each level of this structure.
A hair is composed of three concentric layers.
On the outside, the cuticle, a very fine envelope, is composed of scales arranged like roof tiles. It protects the hair.
Then, the robust cortex is made up of keratin fibres and pigments (melanin).
They are what give the hair color .
Finally, the medulla, a hollow part, which only exists in hair with a large diameter.
coloring chemical permanent or tone on tone: toxic and dangerous products that damage the hair
Before we get into the nitty-gritty, let's distinguish between two types of colorings .
The coloring chemical "tone on tone
You may know it as "regé" or " diacolor ".
It acts on the surface by absorption, without penetrating the interior of the fiber capillary, and fades in 4 to 8 shampoos or in a few weeks depending on the process used.
It concerns about 20% of the colorings that are currently practiced in France.
Its components include azo compounds and the PPD (paraphenylenediamine) family.
The coloring permanent chemical oxidation
It is the most common in conventional hairdressing salons and also the most harmful.
This coloring "oxidation", aims to permanently change the color of your hair.
The first step is toopen the scales of the cuticle .
In fact, the protective layer of the hair must be weakened so that it allows the chemicals to enter.
Then the oxidant in the coloring chemical will lighten the natural pigments in your hair.
Whether or not you want to darken your color, the chemical coloring always discolours your natural color .
This discolouration makes room for the new artificial pigments.
Finally, the artificial pigments will penetrate the hair to give it its new and definitive color .
For all these steps, it is necessary that the chemical coloring contains ammonia and hydrogen peroxide.
By the way, if your color is marked "ammonia-free", it contains an ammonia derivative called monoethanolamine.
Damaged hair: the real risks and dangers of colorings chemicals
The four main substances contained in colorings chemicals are also the most dangerous to health.
Ammonia, peroxide, PPD and resorcinol all have a poor toxicological profile.
By pulling apart the scales of the cuticle and oxidising the cells of the cortex, the colorings chemicals cause lasting damage to the hair, which becomes dry and porous.
Both the composition and the process of the chemical color damage your hair.
It is harmful to the health of your hair.
In addition, the color chemical oxidation is applied to the scalp.
Powerful oxidants and sources of free radicals, their components could promote hair loss and bleaching.
Finally, more serious " coloring accidents " occur with chemical colorings at the hairdresser's or with colorings bought in supermarkets.
Chemical colorings can cause massive hair loss and shedding.
The products accompanying the chemical coloring also damage your hair
Great, after doing a chemical coloring the hairdresser recommends products.
These products are designed to hide the poor condition of your hair.
Indeed, once the hair is damaged, shampoos, treatments or even masks aim to camouflage the porosity of your hair.
These products are based on siliconeThese hair care products contain silicone, which smothers the hair and deposits carcinogenic substances and endocrine disruptors(parabens).
Toxic products to avoid:
- Ammonia and monoethanolamine
- Hydrogen peroxide, and substitutes ("peroxide-free" label)
- PPD (paraphenylenediamine)
The coloring : the color that doesn't damage and cares for your hair
The coloring natural and vegetable contains only powdered plants and water.
The natural color does not penetrate the hair.
Therefore, it does not weaken the cuticle, the natural protective layer of the hair.
On the contrary, it coats the hair.
This protective vegetable layer strengthens your hair and is a real care for your hair.
It adds thickness, volume and shine.